The One Handed Stuff:
Hopey Steering Damper:
Starting with the steering damper. This is a mountain bike specific damper made by hopey. If you are planning to ride one handed I highly recommend going for one of these. Tim at Hopey is super helpful and will assist you with the brackets you need etc.
I’ve gone for the overlay option, using two left levers. I’ve always used Hope brakes so this was a no brainer for me. I’ve gone for two different levers so I can feel the difference between fingers. I ride with one finger covering the back lever which is run on the top and my other finger on the front lever which is run on the bottom.
As you can see I’m running a bar extender that helps perfect the overlay of the levers. This is a modified tri-bar but NotBroken have been developing a specific version to get a better fit.
Check out the below right images to see the development of the NotBroken bar extender I’m currently testing on my CycloCross bike.
A left handed setup can get a bit tricky especially as Shimano don’t make 9, 10 or 11 speed left trigger shifters. Shimano are now offering Di2 shifters which are electronic and can be run on either side and configured however way you want them to shift, but I’m still not sold on electronic shifting on a mountain bike and it’s still very new and costly. I opted for SRAMs grip shift, I can simply add the right shifter to my left side and we are all good to go. I use a 1 x 10 system so only require one shifter, this helps keep my controls a little less cluttered and I still have enough gear range to happily ride any uphill section. You will notice that the righthand grip has been replaced by a NotBroken prototype hand tray which acts as the interface between my paralysed arm and handlebar.
I use the SDG TiFly Storm saddle with rubber grips. It’s not particularly comfortable but it helps me hold my position when climbing and weighting the front end on steep climbs.
FOX DOSS dropper post, this really helps getting on and off the bike. Being able to mount the bike with the seat in the down position and then hitting a lever as you set off to put the post up takes some of the stress away from getting going with one arm.
Shimano SPD, I find the clipped in pedals are super useful for moving the bike around and adding stability on the rough stuff. I opt for a clipless pedal with a surrounding cage for a larger contact surface.
The Normal Stuff
FOX 36 RC2 Forks set to 170mm running three orange tokens
FOX Float X with the largest volume spacer
I run the suspension slightly softer on the rear to help keep my weight central to avoid being pitched forward. The bikes long wheel base and slack head angle also helps massively with this. I’m yet to have an over the bars moment, clipping trees is a different matter though.
Bar & Stem:
35MM OnOff stem and 38mm rise Renthal FatBar Light bars which are 740mm wide.
I use the shortest stem I can and reasonably high bar to help with lifting the front end.
27.5″ Mavic XL rear wheel with the Mavic SL out front.
The rear rim is wider and helps when weighting the tyre and avoiding burps and also adds some stability. I always like using a light front wheel but i’m pushing it with the XC race front Mavic SL. Less spokes and super skinny front rim makes for an extremely light wheel, however the big tyre I use does’t marry up the best with the narrow rim but I can just about get away with it. For big Alps stuff I usually switch them out for a DH wheel set.
Out back I go between the Mavic Quest and a Specialized Slaughter depending on conditions. both reasonably wide at 2.4. I’ve been using the Schwalbe Magic Marry on the front which offers insane grip!
Pictures by: Alex Tyler